Maui 4

So I’m still piecing together all that I’d like to record our recent Maui trip.  Here’s the next entry, which I have to say I’d classify as my favorite experience of the trip, since it was cycling in a beautiful and adventurous locale with my favorite bike. 

Where we left off in the last Maui post was putting my coupler Long Haul Trucker together at the summit of Haleakala, riding down from the summit, and spending another night at Hosmer Grove Campground. 

The original ride down was pretty fun, and I planned on continuing down from the campground all the way to the ocean in the morning.  When morning came, I was feeling pretty sore from the hiking we had done in the past couple days, but still excited to get out again on the Trucker.  I was however, feeling a sort of cyclist’s guilt that so far my riding plans only included going down, with really no climbing.  I enjoy climbing, and feel that descents should be earned.  Most who ride Haleakala hire a tour company to rent them a bike and give them a van ride to the summit, and then all the riding is coasting and drooling over scenery without having to put forth any effort.  As a matter of fact, most the rentals I saw were actually single speed mountain bikes with road touring tires, which I’m sure are purchased in mass at the cheapest price one can find a bike with disc brakes to hold up to the constant coasting and braking.  Me, I joined the few roadie hardmen that were out climbing the route on their carbon in full race kits, only I was the slightly pudgy Minnesotan in a mixture of wool, lycra, and touring shoes slowly grinding on a big fat coupled touring bike.  J  I did get a ton of ataboy’s along the way, which was motivational.   I was determined to climb from Hosmer Grove around 6,700 feet to the summit, which is at just above 10,000 feet.  My GPS, combined with MapMyRide.com rated the climb at a Category 1, which is nothing to scoff at on a light road bike, and on a Trucker with a standard road triple crank, it was a heavy breather. 

The scenery was largely the same for the majority of the climb, since as soon as you are above Hosmer you are above the effective tree line, and the terrain is larger covered in rock and shrubs.  The park service maintains signage at each 1,000 foot increment, so it was nice to see the progress tick by one sign at a time. 

Looking down at Hosmer Grove: 

Climbing on the heavy bike: 

Obligatory coupler shot...So many places to go...

Time rolled by along with miles and elevation, and I eventually reached the summit.  Alison had driven up there and met me, and we had a bit of food and relaxed for a bit before I adjusted my layers for the descent.  It was chilly up top, but now I would be descending from 10,000 feet to 0 feet over the next couple hours, and the temperature would surely be changing with the descent.  I settled on a clothing setup that would let me shiver too bad, but that I could stay comfortable down low in too.  I’d eventually meet Alison again on the way down to shed a layer or two. 

The Trucker's first time at 10,000 feet.... 

The LHT with the Haleakala Crater in the background...

The way down was fantastic, and I was glad I earned it with the climb.  It was surreal to be cycling above clouds- a scene I’m used to from flying, but don’t see often from the saddle.  I wondered what it would feel like to climb the full 10,000 feet.  Perhaps someday.  The first set of miles took me back down what I had just climbed from Hosmer.  It consisted of a whole lot of switchbacks, so a lot of braking and controlled cornering.  I was thinking along the way about how much it would suck to have a front tube blowout around one of the many corners, and I must have jinxed myself, because not five minutes later it happened.  Through reflexes formed from many years of various riding adventures, I kept the bike upright as it tried to pull out from underneath me, and I brought it to a stop without going off the side of the road, which would have resulted in a very unpleasant tumble down a lot of talus.  I’m glad it didn’t come to that; I’ve had enough surgery.  

Changing tubes...

Back in business, smiling above the clouds...

Descending, descending, and more descending...

 I was able to swap tubes and get rolling in short order, and continued my way down the volcano.  Soon I was passing through a mix of rocky and forested terrain, still switch-backing quite a bit.  I reached the elevations where the mountain and clouds were mixing, and things got very humid and hampered by low-visibility.  Alison was following me in the car at this point, which was nice considering my bike lights probably didn’t do a whole lot of good in the think innards of the cloud cover.  I rode pretty cautiously and made my way below the cloud bases as quick as I could to get back into motorists field of vision.  Aside from the traffic worries, riding in clouds was actually a lot of fun.

After exiting the clouds, I found myself on the gentle slopes of lower Haleakala, and the riding turned to pretty comfortable upcountry Hawaiian roads, with a mixture of forests, farmland, and cattle fields.  It was nice and warm, and I could have ridden in this type of area for a long time.  A good lengthy tour of Hawaii would be great.  

Look closely and you'll see me in the roadway below...Alison took this photo from a switchback above...Maui Mountains and the Pacific in the background...I got to stare at them both the whole way down...

From mountains to lush farmsteads...

I cruised the easy slopes for quite a while, and ended up in the coastal town of Pai’a.  A good place to dip a wheel in the ocean and finish a ride started in an environment totally different but only a two-hour span away.   A few different people on the beach commented on the coupled Surly as I waited to meet Alison.  It’s amazing how many bike fans there are in the world, and how recognized the Surly and S and S brands are. 

Traffic?  Must be back to Pai'a...

I'm used to seeing water bottled suctioned inward do to altitude loss flying, but not many days do I see it on the bike...

Dipping a wheel in the Pacific at the end of the ride...

I highly recommend doing this ride if you ever have the chance.  It was the highlight of my trip to Maui, and I’d repeat it any day.   

Climb map here.

Descent map here.

Self-Supported Tour de Pepin...

There is an event ride down in Lake City, MN in early June called the "Tour de Pepin".  I've been intrigued to ride the route ever since I spent a weekend camping down in that area a couple years ago.  Last Saturday a friend and I pulled the trigger and spent the day rolling through the bluffs and water scenery that circles Lake Pepin.  It's actually the widest section (I think) of the Mississippi River that forms the lake.  Due to bridge locations, riding around the lake is a 72 mile route.  And I have to say a pretty descent loop for cycling.  The MN side had a bit more traffic than I prefer (not that cyclists enjoy traffic at all), but the shoulders were ample the whole way, and the WI side of the lake was downright pleasant county riding.  

March in MN?  And no arm warmers or wool layers?

Crossing over the River near Wabasha (town the movie Grumpy Old Men was about)...

Lots of water and bluffs, and many a frog to dodge...a few try to jump into our wheels...

We stopped in the town of Pepin for some lunch, and chose the Third Street Deli, based on a review I found on my iPhone.  It's a little eclectic breakfast and lunch place out of a lady's house, and it was delicious.  I love finding little tasty random places like this while out cycling.  We took down a delicious meal followed by desert and a little relaxing before moving on with the rest of the ride.

Lemon bread pudding with caramelized pears and fresh cream...

Bluffs along the WI side of the Lake...I didn't photograph it, but a few mile down the road from this shot we actually got to enjoy a 410 foot climb, which is a rarity in most of our midwestern riding locales.  I like to climb on my bikes, so it was somewhat of a treat after so much flat all the time.  Not that I have any climbing talent; I just like it.  

It was a nice day out on the road bike, and it has me energized for what I hope will be a season of returning to distance cycling, which I did quite a bit of pre-surgeries.  I always dream up semi-sensible long distance routes that I'd like to get out and achieve, but for a couple years now not many have come to fruition due to healing.  It was great to roll some miles in good company and scenery again on this ride, and I hope there will be more!

Aforementioned bike addition...

So in a previous post, I eluded to an upcoming announcement of a new bike.  It hasn't been much of a secret; I've told many friends, and I blogged about the search and deliberation a while ago, but I'm just finally getting around to posting some shots of the newest bike in our family stable.  I once again called on the services of Bob Brown Cycles to retrofit a Surly Long Haul Trucker with S and S couplers, this time for Alison.  Now we both have the ability to use our benefits as airline employees to travel with bikes with no added charge.  

We had been toying with the idea of a fully custom bike, as it's pretty hard to match her exact geometry needs to a stock touring bike, which are usually geared toward male riders, but the 52cm LHT actually works out pretty well after switching to a women's cockpit and saddle, so we pulled the trigger on purchasing this one and having Bob cut it for us.  

Her bike is decidedly pretty for a Surly, as we chose a pink panel scheme on the black frame.  People have referred to it as the "Cover Gurly".  I'll let Alison choose if the term sticks.  :)  Bob did a beautiful job, and I'll get some more proper pictures on the blog soon.  Here's what I have for now:

Home from the chop shop:

Getting an application of frame saver, a rust inhibitor sprayed into the frames innards: 

Freshly built up as of tonight...we may make a few component swaps here and there for various reasons and preferences, but it is very ready for touring...

The original plan was to get out over the weekend to somewhere distant as we both have a long weekend off, but due to flight loads in the locations we were hoping for, as well as weather forecasts, I think we are actually going to forgo the first flight for this bike and do a local bike camping trip.  That way Alison can also get used to her bike in familiar territory before adding the element of stress/adventure that getting out in distant locales can bring.   We do plan on flying out with the bikes soon, and we're pretty excited to see where our pair of Truckers take us over the years.

Fatbikin' through the Cities...

Last weekend I only had a single day off due to picking up some overtime at work, so I wanted to take advantage of my Saturday and get out on the Mukluk.  Angry Catfish Bicycle + Coffee Bar, a locale bike and coffee shop was having a celebration day of sorts as they were kicking off their 3rd season in business.  I rode over and met some good friends of mine there for coffee and pastry's before heading out of more riding throughout Minneapolis and St Paul.  I have to say I really like this bike shop, and plan to spend more time over there.  They've been a little out of the way for me as I don't get into MPLS very often other than the airport, but now that we live in Highland Park the Catfish is much closer to us.  They have fantastic coffee, a very knowledgable staff, and deal in nothing sweet bicycles and gear.  I think a well spec'd Surly is the lowliest bike I saw in the place.  

After social time at the Catfish, my friend Jonathan and I pedaled over to the Lake Calhoun area, as his coworkers were doing a Polar Plunge (jumping into the lake through a hole in the ice- a questionable northern tradition).  He stayed there for a bit while I grabbed some lunch, and then we met up again for a ride through the many rail to trail corridors in MPLS, which took us under Target Field downtown, and eventually road the east side of the Mississippi back down to my area of STP.  

The ride conditions earlier in the day were fantastic, with snow falling and cold surfaces to ride- a light layer of packed snow in most places.  Quick riding on the big tires.  However, as the day passed, it warmed up just enough that most paths and streets turned wetter, kicking up a constant light spray onto my bike that ended up freezing on contact.  I picked up more ice than I've seen on a bike in quite a while.  There was so much that the weight difference was very noticeable.  It was like carrying a bunch of extra water bottles.  

All and all a good ride and a good day.  I've picked up my third cold of the year this week, and if I can deal with it I hope to have another good ride day this weekend... 

Em and Svea enjoying hangin' at the Catfish..Svea was loving Em's sunglasses, and got to touch all the bikes.  :)

A few shots of all the ice I picked up on the Mukluk riding home...

I became pretty committed to the middle ring halfway through my ride as the front detailer was dealing with this... 

There's a bottom bracket in there somewhere...

Maui 3

After we watched the sunrise over the Haleakala Crater, it was time for a good hike down into it.  We didn’t have our backpacking stuff along, and I was pretty amped to get my bike put together later in the day for some riding, or it would have been pretty hard to get me away from packing out and spending a night or two down in the crater.  There are backpacking sites, as well as cabins that the NPS stocks with wood. 

Despite our hike needing to be limited to a day trip, it was pretty fantastic.  We took off from the summit visitor center down the Sliding Sands Trail, and hiked to Ka Lu’u o ka ‘O’o, which is one of the many cinder cones down in the crater. 

We started out pretty cold, as the wind chill values were down in the upper 20’s, which the park service workers commented was pretty rough even for up there- it was a particularly windy morning.  But the wind eventually died out as we traveled lower, the sun warmed us, and layer after layer ended up transferring to our packs. 

I thought it was great to be hiking above the cloud layers hanging over the ocean.  It’s a surreal place to be, up in a volcanic crater, surrounded by super dry conditions, all the while looking down at rainforest and ocean.  I’d love to someday make the backpack trip from the summit all the way down to the ocean near Kipahulu.  I’d have to get my knees ready for that one. 

I don’t feel like I’m done with the hiking in Haleakala by any means; I feel we only got a taste, but I’m not sure when we’ll have a chance to return.  There are so many places in the world to visit.  I’m glad we got out and took of few pictures to try to keep the experience with us. 

When we got back to the visitor center at the summit, I let my Long Haul Trucker out of it’s box and put it together.  All in all, it traveled well, but I did need to do a bit of minor wheel truing, as the hubs take a lot of pressure from the sides of the case.  It’s a huge bike to be in an airline size case.  But it works!  I got a lot of looks and comments from tourists that were passing by on how much fun the coupler bike looked.  Everyone wants to see the bike that splits in half. 

To finish off the day, Alison took the rental car back down to the campground, and I followed on the Trucker.  She had decided not to rent a bike for the trip, as she was fighting a cold pretty bad by the end of our hike.  

We weren’t excited about our camp food that night, and buckled under the temptation of dropping down to Pai’a on the coast for a dinner of seafood burritos.  I have no regrets about the decision, despite it not really being that short of drive.  We drove back up the mountain and slept well. 

Heading down into the crater...

Hiking around the rim of Ka Lu’u o ka ‘O’o...

Trucker getting out of it's box...

Yup.

Hiking route can be seen HERE.

Maui 2

For the second Maui post, I'll just leave you with a couple pictures, and a link to a video of the sunrise we took in at the summit of Haleakala.  

Zoomed in over the crater...

Looking off to the west just after sunrise and seeing the shadow of Haleakala over the West Maui Mountains and the ocean...

A rough video of the sunrise can be viewed HERE.

Maui 1

This post was written a couple weeks ago, but just added now due to computer issues...

It’s taken me over two weeks to get back to some sort of rhythm at home since returning from Hawaii.  Between home projects while settling into our new place, bike projects (to be announced), and flying trips for work, I’ve barely had time to sit down and get everything blogged about our trip, which was a great winter escape.   Rather than attempt to squeeze every detail that I’d like to about Maui trip into one stretched out post, I’m going to break it up into sections.  I’ll begin with, well, the start of the trip.

We’ve tried to fly standby to Hawaii a few times, with some success and some failure.  More failure in recent years, so we decided to try a trick that another pilot clued us into.  We searched for flights on the west coast that didn’t connect from anywhere before heading to Maui.  I guess they tend to be more open.  We found a great early morning option out of L.A., so we flew out there the night before and got a well, economy is what we’ll call it, hotel room to spend the night.  Not much sleeping- just listening to a very loud and half hysterical (in a humorous way) Asian couple through the wall.  I don’t know what was so funny because I only speak English and a bit of Spanish, but they had a better night than us.  We managed to sleep a couple hours, and then headed back to LAX and caught our flight to Kahului.  Five hours later, we were flying by Mauna Kea and Mauna Loa on the Big Island and descending past Haleakala on Maui to land.  I like volcanoes.  Riding Haleakala, which is a Maui favorite, was on my list, and flying over it’s huge slopes got me pretty excited for the trip.  Until then, I’d been so wrapped up in working and the house that it hadn’t really settled in that we were going to get to spend a week on a beautiful island in the Pacific. 

We claimed all our bags (to include my coupled Long Haul Trucker which made it just fine), got our rental car and some groceries, and headed out down the Hana Highway, which skirts around some beautiful scenery along the northeast to east side of the island, and leads to some of “old Hawaii”.  Hana and the areas around it are the places to see if you’re looking for laid back agricultural Hawaii where people are selling fruit out of their pickups and basically just hanging out all day.  It’s pretty relaxing.  I think that fruit was the best food I ate the whole trip, including the expensive Luau we went to at the end. 

We camped at the Kipahulu end of Haleakala National Park that first night, which is a free campground just above the ocean down the road past Hana.  I was pretty bummed out to find it full of loud party crowds since I’m all for solitude while camping, but everyone quieted down and slept at nightfall.  Our site wasn’t really a site but a grass patch next to our car, but it was a free place to sleep.  All in all, I can’t say I was impressed with our beach camping experiences on the trip, as it seems to be where all the inebriated and baked people pile together, and a lot of the beach campgrounds we saw seemed to be half gypsy camp than tourists.  If your play your cards right and learn the convoluted permit system in Hawaii, you can plan better than we did and find some peace on permit required beaches.  We’re going to try for those places next time.  I think the Kipahulu camp may be a good place, but we hit it on a Saturday night, which was probably the reason for the crowd. 

Anyhow, the next morning, our first full day in Maui, we hiked the ‘Ohe’o Gulch on the Pipiwai Trail, which is some of the only hiking in Haleakala National Park down on the rainy side of the Island.  It’s a hike full of rainforest, bamboo stands, wild fruit (we enjoyed ripe passion fruit this time of year), and beautiful swimming holes (watch for flash floods signs though- people get flushed here), and Waimoku Falls. 

We spent the rest of the day retracing the Hana Highway, where we met a guy selling banana bread who was a transplant from Uptown here in the Cities.  He bakes a great traditional macadamia nut banana bread for being a non-native.  He gave us some camping tips for future trips too.  

After getting back from Hana, we headed up Haleakala Hwy, with Hosmer Grove Campground as our destination for the night.  We came prepared not only for beach camping, but for camping at 7,000 feet, which is where Hosmer is at.  It’s the second Haleakala National Park campground, and I liked it much better than the people pile down in the warmth, but it was chilly at night.  Much like MN in the spring and fall.  Not what people think of when they think of Hawaii.   

The next couple days brought some great experiences on the volcano, both via boot and bike, but that’ll be my next post…

Flying in past the Big Island and Haleakala...

Passion fruit all over the trail...

Bamboo forest...

Waimoku Falls...

Not sure what kind of tree this is, but it seemed to be the king of the area...

Along the Hana Highway...

Kipahulu Campground of Haleakala National Park...

Seven Pools area just prior to the ocean as the O'heo' Gulch spills out...

Great camp food...

Hosmer Grove...

Looking out from Hosmer Grove up the slopes of Haleakala...