Saturday, January 24, 2009

Latest project...

I'm getting very close to sending my second 5.11a at the gym.  The first one was not really comparable to this one as far as the overall style and feel of the route.  The first was a mixture of finger pockets, to laybacks, to dynamic ledge moves (not really a consistent feel that would really represent a single type of rock or route outdoors).  Nor was it consistent in difficulty throughout the route (only a couple moves at the 5.11 level, with most easier).  My current project is much more sustained and consistent, and I have to say I prefer it, even though I haven't quite sent it.  I've figured out every move, but the crux is in the middle and I have been hitting it only once and a while.   Balance with proper weight shifts is key, as is remembering to breath through the most intense three moves (all in a row of course).   The climb is mostly delicate finger placements on holds that are anything but solid, then finishing with a roof on slightly more substantial holds, still with tricky weight shifts.  Every time I work on the route I figure out more about it, making sequences easier that I originally had no idea how to pull off.  I think at the end of today, had I not been worn out from learning the last few moves I could have sent the route, but it'll have to wait till I'm fresh on one of the next gym visits.  It'll go.  I like climbing.

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